Archive for July, 2007
July 30th, 2007 - Bergeon’s New Product List
Bergeon, the world’s leader in watchmaking tools, has come out with their new products. The catalogue, written in four languages can be downloaded from their website. The catalogue includes everything from ergonomic screwdrivers to cleaning swabs. The detailed list includes:
1. Assortment of 5 and 10 ergonomic screwdrivers - The two sets both have screwdrivers with stainless steel shanks and blades and TPE elomaster-coated handles.
2. Casing cushion - Central hollowed felt covered,with stamoïd, non-scratching the crystals and the cases. Comes in nickelled brass and synthetic rings.
3. Assortment of 12 mainspring winders for calibre ETA
4. Benzine distributors - Able to withstand different alcohols and has an innovative locking system. Comes in 120ml and 180ml bottles.
5. Polishing paste - Specially suited for platinum
6. Swabs - Acid and solvent resistant. Choice of non-knit and knit fabric heads.
7. Ring mandrel
8. A good variety of jewellers tweezers - “Dumont”; With grooved points
9. Micromotors with High Speed Rotation (Emax and Espert 500) - ideal for polishing, engraving, and stone-setting; has a good set of accessories
10. Watch cases waterproof tester - Measures not only waterproofness but also resistance to condensation.
11. A good variety of workbenches
For those who can’t afford to buy the latest models though you can still enjoy looking at the catalogues as well as take note of the product features so you can at least compare the features available at discount watch tools stores.
July 28th, 2007 - Watch Parts: Illustration
For a better understanding of the previous two posts I realized that an illustration would be much better than a simple list of horological terms. Descriptions can lead to confusion while an illustration of watch parts will point out exactly what each part mentioned in the Watch Repair Notes mean. Hope you find the illustrations below useful.
Illustration 1: Watch Movements - Back View
Illustration 2: Watch Movements - Dial View
Image Source: Timezone
July 26th, 2007 - Detailed Watch Repair Notes - Part Two
…continuation of the Watch Repair Notes from Hairspring Vibrating Company.
15 - From side view observe level at which:
a) guard pin meets safety roller.
b) pallet horn meets roller jewel. See clearance between guard pin and end of roller jewel.
16 - Hold balance with pallet in dead center of banking pins. Test freedom of roller jewel in pallet horn slot.
a) Turn balance 10º beyond point where pallet hits banking pin, test freedom of pallet horn between roller jewel and banking pin.
b) Turn balance 45º from (a) (same direction); test freedom of the guard pin between safety roller and banking pin.
c) Apply (a) and (b) on both receiving and leaving sides.
17 - Lightly oil impulse face of each pallet stone. Check motion in four positions with the original winding of only five half turns which represents approximate mainspring power after 24 hours.
18 - Timing Machine. Take four position rates with the same five half turns, wind fully, checking for racing, repeat same four rates, compare for isochronism, adjust accordingly.
19 - Oil jewels. Use heavy grease between winding and clutch pinions.
20 - Check for bent minute wheel teeth.
21 - Rotate minute and intermediate wheels in each direction, observing freedom.
22 - Replace cannon pinion half way, synchronize minute wheel teeth, press pinion. Check drag, be sure that pinion does not rise on center post while being rotated.
23 - Lift hour hand. Dial washer or weight of hour wheel should return hand to original position.
24 - Lift second hand to check space between second hand post and fourth wheel jewel.
25 - Wind and set watch. Place into an envelope in stem down, stem up, dial up and dial down for approximately four hours each, recording on the envelope each position rate. Adjust accordingly. Reset and repeat four positions for longer intervals.
July 24th, 2007 - Detailed Watch Repair Notes - Part One
This step-by-step guide to watch repair was lifted from a section of one of my favorite blogs, the Abbey Clock Clinic, which I already mentioned in my second post (Some of My Favorite Watch Sites). Since there are so many technical terms in these notes, my next entries will be a glossary of the horological terms used here. Due to the length of the notes I will be dividing the watch repair notes into two entries.
1 - Check for magnetism
2 - Observe freedom of second hand, hour hand, balance wheel, pallet and escape wheel. This will determine the cause of mechanical difficulty before assembly which can be corrected before cleaning.
3 - Clean and Assemble, checking the following in the order listed:
4 - Check endshake of each train wheel.
5 - Spin center wheel, observe smooth stop of escape wheel. Repeat in four positions.
6 - Mainspring should fill approximately one third of barrel and reach barrel cover ledge. Oil.
7 - Check arbor endshake between barrel and cover. Oil bearings.
8 - Check arbor endshake between plate and barrel bridge. Oil bearings.
9 - Twist square of arbor by 20º, observe freedom of snapback.
10 - Wind half a turn only, observe backlash of escape wheel. Repeat in four positions.
11 - Holding watch vertically, lift pallet to upper banking pin, pallet must drop to lower pin. Do not oil pallet pivot jewels.
12 - Wind five half turns only. Test lock and slide of receiving stone on every escape tooth. Repeat with leaving stone. If adjusting is necessary, step 16 must first be checked and adjusted.
13 - Oil balance jewels. Replace balance and bridge. Check level and freedom of balance, spring, bottom of stud and bottom of regulator key. Adjust movement of spring in regulator pins, adjust pins’ height.
14 - Check beat. Stop watch by placing screwdriver against both bridge and train wheel. Pallet should come to rest in center of banking pins.
to be continued…
July 22nd, 2007 - Shopping Online for Watches the Secure Way
Since security is one of the main issues why many people stay away from online shopping I decided to post a few tips that might put your mind at rest and will encourage you to take advantages of online watch retail stores.
- Buy from authorized watch dealers - Authorized dealers are the way to go if you want to be 100% sure that the watch you buy is authentic. They also, of course, have very secure payments methods. The downside is that you can be sure not to be able to get anything at a discount price (unless they happen to have a sale going on).
- Do research on any unauthorized dealers - There are plenty of really good unauthorized dealers out there. The good thing with unauthorized dealers is that they usually have a good variety of watches of different brands and models and offer plenty at stuff at discount prices. Make sure the dealer has a good reputation though. Do not believe just the testimonials on their website but ask in forums and search their name on the internet to find out their real reputation among customers. You can also use Who Is as a starting point to investigate their identity. The best way is of course to buy from a store that someone you personally know recommends.
- Do not buy from an online store that doesn’t have a clear privacy and security policy. Do not buy from an online store that does not list their permanent address and gives other ways to contact them like their email address and/or phone number.
- Choose stores that accept PayPal and other online payment options that use escrow services over stores that accept credit card only. By using an escrow service you can be assured that your money only gets to the seller after you have received the goods. Use your credit card only when you are really sure that the store you are buying from is a reputable one.
- Buy a small item first before buying more expensive ones. Try out the stores service and the quality of their product by buying items like a simple watch strap. If you are satisfied with their service (no problems with charging or with the delivery speed) and the product you bought then you can buy the more expensive product you’ve been really eying all along.
July 20th, 2007 - Online Watch Shopping
Shopping for the right watch can be time consuming, especially if you do it the traditional way. This is specially true if you want to find watches at a bargain price or if you want a special kind of watch. You will probably end up having to visit several different stores. By shopping online for watches you will not save time but won’t even need to leave your house saving gas and money as well.
Some other advantages I have experienced in buying watches on the internet include:
1. More Choices - In the internet you visit plenty of online watch retailers and so get to see more options. Your local watch retailer might have a good collection available but it surely couldn’t compete with the options you have in the internet. By shopping online you can pick anything from the newest model or the oldest antique watch you can find in a matter or minutes.
2. Being able to buy from a watch retailer halfway around the world - This is one of the biggest perks of shopping online. The internet gives you access to stores you otherwise would need to hop on a plane just to visit. The additional fee for shipping is well worth it compared to the money you’ll have to dish out to buy a plane ticket and book a hotel room.
3. Secure purchases - Though this is one of the things people worry about, online shopping is really secure nowadays. As long as you buy from reputable online shops or on places like eBay you can be sure that your credit card information is secure and that you will receive the item you purchased.
4. Watch Parts and Tools- There are plenty of novelty watch stores on the internet that not only sell watches but watch parts and tools as well. While it might be difficult to find specific watch parts in your neighborhood or it might take a significant waiting period before your local store order’s the part for you, you can speed things up a bit by order directly from online stores that sells (specialty) watch parts.
July 18th, 2007 - Factors that Determine a Watch’s Value
2. Movements – Generally mechanical watches are more expensive than quartz watches due to the nature of the movements used.
3. Case Materials – There are plenty of choices when it comes to the material used for watch cases including plastic, different kinds of metals (both base and precious metals), different kinds of plating for base metals, steel, and resins. The price is partially determined by the type of case used with plastic and resin being the cheapest and gold-filled and precious metals being the most expensive.
4. Watch Face Cover – The cover designed to protect the dial of the watch also varies in material. Materials used are plastic, glass and synthetic sapphire. Plastic is of course the cheapest and sapphire the most expensive.
5. Straps – The straps used can significantly affect the price of a watch, especially if the straps are made of really expensive materials and are designed to be very stylish. There is a wide variety of strap materials from rubber and plastic to metals of all kinds as well as various types of leather.
July 16th, 2007 - Water Resistant Wristwatches
I remember getting my first watch as a gift during Christmas. Though I can’t remember much I do remember that it did last a few days until I held it under the faucet to just to see what happened. I quickly learned the difference between water resistant watches and ordinary watches.
Though water resistant watches are basically the same, they vary as to just how water resistant they are. Regular water resistant watches will survive childhood experiments like the one I did and even short swims in the pool. These are the types of watches that you will see marked “water resistant”. Divers use a special kind of water resistant watch. Watches that can be used for diving are also marked “water resistant” in the back but has additional markings indicating the fact that it can withstand high pressure levels. For a watch to be called a diver’s watch the minimum depth it should be water resistant it at least 330 feet. However, due to divers’ special needs a high-pressure watch isn’t automatically classified as a diver’s watch unless it also has the following features that are part of any standard diver’s watch. The usual features include:
1. time controller
2. luminosity
3. shock resistance
4. anti-magnetism
5. very solid watch straps
Note that water resistant watches are thus because the cases are sealed in such a way that water can’t get in. This means that if you need your watch’s battery changed you should not change it yourself and have a professional do it to ensure that the watch is properly resealed.
July 14th, 2007 - Basic Watch Maintenance
Quality watches will last for generations. If you want your favorite watch to someday be an heirloom though you should take good care of your watch and make sure it is properly maintained. Here are some basic things you should remember to keep your watch properly maintained.
- Have your watch serviced every three years – This is true for all kinds of watches, whether mechanical or automatic. This will not only ensure that your watch works properly but that it still keeps the right time. Note that even the watch movements of quartz watches need regular maintenance.
- Change batteries at once when drained – You can do this on your own but it is always better to have a professional change the batteries for you. This is to ensure that you don’t do any damage to the watch (even if just the casing) and also so you can have the watch cleaned at the same time without having to wait for the regular maintenance schedule. Note that you should never change the batteries yourself if your watch is water resistant since you have no way of resealing the watch.
- Annual checkup for diver’s watches – This annual check up doesn’t mean a yearly cleaning of the watch movements but a yearly check for the resistancy of your watch. It is also best to have the seals replaced each year for diver’s watches.
- Check your watch straps/bracelets and casing for damage – These parts get damaged from regular wear and tear. Sweat, cosmetics, and perfumes can also cause damage to plated parts. If your watch frequently gets submerged/exposed to salt water or chemicals it contributes to the faster deterioration of these parts. Make sure that the needed parts are replaced when needed.
July 12th, 2007 - Use of the Term Swiss-Made to be More Tightly Regulated
The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH) has proposed stricter regulation of the term “Swiss Made”. The proposal was agreed upon by 87% of its members during the general meeting held last June 28 at the Hôtel Elite in Biel.
While Swiss watches are known worldwide for their quality and beauty the industry has been criticised for years due to the lax regulations, which they deem could result in the lowering of the value of the the watches in terms of credibility in the eyes of consumers worldwide. Currently a watch can be called a Swiss watch with only a rate of 50% of its movements actually being Swiss-made. As for acceptable rate for production cost there isn’t even a set standard as to how much of the actual production cost should have been incurred by operations done in Switzerland. The proposal now states that for mechanical watches 80% be the minimum requirement for both production cost and overall cost for all the parts. For electronic watches this is 60%. The production cost to be computed will not include the raw materials to be used as well as the precious stones and batteries. Aside from these they are proposing that the majority of technical construction as well as the development of the prototypes be made in Switzerland.
The new proposals are expected by the FH to ruffle some feathers especially with regards to the supply of watch components. However, they realize that if they want to keep up the prestige that comes with the appellation “Swiss Watch” then they really do need to have stricter regulations.