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September 7th, 2007 - Jewels in Watches
The jewels that are usually used in watches are rubies, sapphires, garnets and diamonds. For ordinary consumers when they hear of watches in jewels they usually assume that the jewels referred to are the precious stones adorning the watch’s face and/or watch straps. The more visible stones adorning the watch the more valuable a watch is. While they are jewels ON watches when horologists talk about jewels IN watches what they are referring too are the jewels within the watch, which serve specfic functions.
The primary function of jewels is to help reduce friction. They are able to serve this function due to their smooth surface, which allows the metal parts to slide past them without rubbing into any rough surfaces. They are also very hard (especially diamonds) that they suffer from minimal wear and tear.
There are basically fur types of functional jewels: hole jewels, cap jewels, pallet jewels, and the roller jewel. They are differentiated not by their function since they all serve the same function, which is to reduce friction, but by their shape and the location in which they are placed. Hole jewels are, as the name implies, jewels that have holes. They are shaped like donuts and placed on wheel arbors. Cap jewels are flat and “cap” the end of arbors. Pallet jewels are rectangular bricks that are placed on the pallet fork. And last, the roller jewel is placed on the balance wheel.
Image Source: NAWCC
September 5th, 2007 - Watches: Complications
In horology, a complication is a watch with other functions besides basic timekeeping. A watch which has a date display or has an alarm is already considered to be a complication. Watches nowadays have so many features that many of the functions do not even really have anything to do with timetelling. Examples of these functions include altimeters and barometers.
Basically when designing a watch the more complications there are the harder it is to design and manufacture. There are more parts that go into the design so that the combination of difficulty in the entire process and the number of parts that go into the making of the watch adds to its value. Simply put, the more functions a watch has the more expensive a watch will be.
Furthermore when a watch has three or more complications with at least one visual indicator, astronomical indicator, and acoustic indicators that watch is considered to be a grand complication. If a watch has three complications but they fall under one category then that watch is still not considered a grand complication.
Most Complicated Watches:
- Il Destriero Scafusia - wristwatch made by the International Watch Company with 21 complications. It also boasts the most precise moon phase display in watches.
- Tour de l’Île - wristwatch made by Vacheron & Constantin as a commemmorative piece for their 250th anniversary in 2005. The watch has 16 complications. There are only 7 pieces available.
- Caliber 89 - pocket watch made by Patek Philippe as a commemmorative piece for their 150th anniversary in 1989. The watch has 33 complications.
September 3rd, 2007 - Over Wound Watches: Repairers in Over their Head
If you bring a watch to a watchmaker and they say that it is impossible for them to fix your watch because it has been “over wound” my advice is for you to get out of that place fast. Even if they do try to service you watch and say that it is possible to fix, watchmakers who believe that a watch can be over wound by you through simple everyday use cannot be trusted. The reason for this is that there simply isn’t a way for you to over wound your watch even if you wind it often. The only way this will happen is if you persist on twisting the winding crown even after it already feels really really tight. So unless you have done this, and I doubt you can turn the winding crown when it gets too tight with your fingers alone, then you know that the watchmaker is not saying the truth. The watchmaker can be lying to you intentionally, seeing that your watch is very difficult to repair and not wanting to go in the trouble of repairing it or knowing that it is beyond his skills to repair, or unintentionally, being a new watchmaker and having misconceptions thus showing ineptness. Either way, the best thing to do is to get out of the shop fast and find another watchmaker to do the watch repair job for you. However,
August 31st, 2007 - Casio Pathfinder PAW1300 Altimeter
The new Casio Pathfinder PAW1300 is taking the market by storm. Although there are other watches out there with the same features its compact and lightweight design plus its very easy-to-use altimeter has impressed its customers and critics alike. Features of the new watch includes atomic timekeeping and a tiny solar cell. The atomic timekeeping device syncs with the atomic ttransmitter from Fort Colins, Colorado daily giving you great accuracy. The solar-powered battery means that replacing batteries are no longer neccesarry nor recharge the existing ones.
Other features include an altimeter, thermometer, barometer, tide graph, diving graph, auto LED (light emitting diode), multiple alarms and a digital compass. With all these features the Pathfinder PAW1300 is truly the latest watch any hiker, climber and even diver will need.
The watch costs about $300 to $350, depending on the casing and watch strap (plastic or titanium) you choose. For more details visit the Casio Pathfinder website.
August 29th, 2007 - Watch Tool Starter Kit
Anyone new to watch repair needs a basic watch tool kit. The basic contents of any respectable starter kit would be the following:
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1. a pair of watchmaker’s tweezers
2. a watchmaker’s loupe
3. a watchmaker’s bracelet sizing kit with punching block
4. a watchmaking hammer
5. a pocket watch opener
6. a spring bar fork
7. watchmaker’s precision screwdriver set - sizes 0.6 mm, 1.0 mm, 1.2 mm
8. a watchmaker’s knife
Although there are starter watch kits available on the market I usually recommend new hobbyists to simply buy each tool individually. While it is true that the total price of kits are almost always less than the total price you will pay for individual tools, buying USED watch tools is definitely way cheaper. Used tools always come at a discounted price and if you can find a used but complete watch kit then so much the better.
Even better is finding brand new discount watch tools. Before purchasing watch tools on the internet shop around and you will find really good online shops selling quality tools at low prices. By buying discount tools you will can either spend less or buy a more complete kit and not limit yourself to the tools listed above.
August 27th, 2007 - Watch Guru Creeping up on SERPs
A little self congratulations is in order. Watch Guru now ranks as number two in Google for the search term “watch guru“, number three for “watchguru“, and number six for “horology blog“. I know these search terms are not that generic and it would be great if this blog got on the first page for terms like watches, horology, watch lover, watch hobby, watch repair, watch resource, horology resource and even just watch blog. However, realistically speaking the blog is doing great considering this is less than a couple of months old!
I know I am too excited and all that but it’s funny that this blog was meant as a channel for the watch lover/horologist in me but it is turning into a really fun hobby in itself too. Watch out horologists and even casual watch buyers, Watch Guru is set to start creeping up on other search terms and take on the world of horology online! I would be extremely happy when the time comes that I see horologists I respect linking back to this blog. Who knows when that’ll be but if it was up to me today wouldn’t be too soon.
In the meantime I’ll take pleasure in posting about anything and everything in the watch world that I find interesting enough to share.
August 25th, 2007 - Ipod + Wristwatch = Staying Power for Watches
Wanting to prove that wristwatches are here to stay I spent time on the internet researching evidence of the staying power of watches. And what I found is that it is here to stay…if only because of the iPod. Ok. The truth is it is wristwatches are here to stay with or without the iPod. Compatibility with the iPod is useful but to me more of a symbol of the adaptability of wristwatches. As long as wristwatch designers and manufacturers can come up with something new and relevant to the current generation then watches are here to stay.
Timex iRonman iControl for iPod
Of course for watch lovers, collectors, and fashionistas “traditional” watches will always be a valued commodity.
August 23rd, 2007 - Time Erases All Things… Even Watches?
In a story by Ben Tracy of WCCO, he raised the question of whether Time is Running Out on Watches. For watch enthusiasts like us, news pointing out to the demise of our favorite gadget, however far in the future it might still be, is saddening indeed. According to Ben Tracy’s report overall watch sales have decreased as much as 5.6 percent last year. If this trend continues each year it won’t be more than a decade until nothing is left in the market except for a few specialized watches.
The decrease in watch sales are attributed mostly to advancement in technology. Due to relatively newer products like computers and cellphones many people find that they do not need to have a watch with them all the time. Computers and especially cell phones are sufficient for many who, unlike hobbyists, once kept watches solely to help them keep track of time. Now that they have multi-function gadgets it doesn’t make sense for some people to buy watches anymore.
However, despite the doomsday prediction of some that wrist watches will no longer be relevant in the future, Dr Dave Brennan, an expert of consumer trends at the University of St. Thomas, pointed out that watches will always have a place. People will still buy and use watches for different reasons like status, function (especially for specialized multi-function watches), fashion, and pleasure (Hooray for watch enthusiasts!). While it is undoubtedly true that the use of watches will continue to decline, watches are still here to stay.
August 21st, 2007 - Watch Museums Around the World
Any watch lover will definitely enjoy a visit to any of these museums. So next time you happen to visit any of these countries make sure to include the following museums in your itinerary. Watch those watches!
Switzerland
Watch & Clock Museum Beyer Zurich
Bahnhofstrasse 31
8001 Zurich, Switzerland
Phone: +41-43-344-6323
The Clock and Watch Museum Beyer Zürich is located at the basement of the Beyer watch store (Chronometrie Beyer). It focuses on the history of chronology with artifacts from 1400BC (an Egyptian water clock) to hi-tech creations (a Patek Philippe watch and a quartz clock that syncs wirelessly to the atomic clock in Neuchâtel) . To get a glimpse of their excellent collection and presentation watch their open museum presentation online. The image shown here is the Griffin, a one-of-a-kind piece, that is valued as a national treasure.
Holland
Museum Van Het Nederlandse Uurwerk (Museum of Dutch Clocks)
Kalverringdijk 3, Zaanse Schans
1509 BT Zaandam, Holland
Phone: 075-6179769
This picturesque museum is worth seeing even just from the outside. A peek inside is even more rewarding for watch enthusiasts. You can visit the Museum Van Het Nederlandse Uurwerk website although you will need a translator to understand anything.
Germany
Guenther Dalek’s Haus der Uhren
Bombergallee 14
Bad Pyrmont, Germany
Phone: +49-5281-8292
Located in the same building as Mr. Guenther Dalek’s house. The personal collections of this master watch and clock restorer is composed of 500 fully functional (mostly European) watches and clocks.
August 19th, 2007 - Getting Started with Watch Repair
Collecting watches is a source of great pleasure for hobbyists. However, repairing watches in addition to collecting them is even more gratifying. There’s nothing like tinkering with an old watch and seeing it come to life after its previous owners have given up on it. The great thing about watch repair though is that it might start as a hobby, but like many hobbyists turned watchmaker, it can turn into a business.
If you plan on learning to repair watches though, be warned that it isn’t that easy. It requires careful study and much patience to be able to learn the ropes. In addition to this you might have a hard time if you have poor eyesight or a shaky hand. Watch repair can be tedious and requires precision. Anyone can learn how to repair watches but not everyone can be very good at it. Just like most skills it requires much practice and dedication.
Furthermore you will need to purchase the necessary watch tools and supplies, which does not come cheap. Because of this I advice you to simply buy discount watch tools while you are still getting the hang of watch repairing. You can always buy the newer models if you find that watch repair suits you and your skill level is worth the investment.
To get started join buy basic watch repair books (read my previous post) and join watch collector’s associations/organizations. They usually hold meetings and sponsor workshops. I recommend joining the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors (NAWCC). Initial membership fee is $65 whether you are US resident or an international member. Airmail rates is of course more expensive the farther from USA you live.